After nearly four decades of shaping the essence of luxury menswear, Véronique Nichanian, the longest-serving creative director in fashion, is stepping down from her role at Hermès. This marks the end of an era for the iconic French house, leaving many to wonder: Who will carry the torch next? And what does this mean for the future of Hermès menswear?
Updated 6:17 p.m. ET Oct. 16
PARIS — In a move that has sent ripples through the fashion world, Véronique Nichanian, the visionary behind Hermès’ menswear for 37 years, has announced her departure. A spokeswoman for the house confirmed the news on Thursday, leaving fans and industry insiders alike reflecting on her unparalleled legacy. But here’s where it gets intriguing: While Nichanian’s exit is bittersweet, the focus has already shifted to her potential successor. Rumors suggest an internal candidate might take the helm, with designer Benjamin Brett, one of her longest-serving deputies, emerging as a strong contender. Le Figaro reports that the official announcement could come within days, though Hermès remains tight-lipped on specifics.
Nichanian, 71, shared her decision in an interview with Le Figaro, revealing that she’ll unveil her final collection in January. She explained that discussions about stepping down had been ongoing for years with Hermès CEO Axel Dumas and artistic director Pierre-Alexis Dumas. “Hermès was kind enough to let me choose the right moment to step away,” she said. “And now feels like that moment.”
Her journey to this point is nothing short of remarkable. A graduate of the prestigious École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, Nichanian honed her craft under Nino Cerruti before being recruited by Hermès’ legendary CEO Jean-Louis Dumas in 1988. At a time when women leading menswear divisions at luxury houses were rare, Nichanian broke barriers and redefined the genre. Under her stewardship, Hermès grew into a global powerhouse, boasting revenues of 15.2 billion euros in 2024.
But here’s where it gets controversial: While Nichanian’s tenure has been a masterclass in stability and craftsmanship, her departure comes at a tumultuous time for the luxury industry. With consumers rethinking their spending habits post-pandemic and brands grappling with a slowdown in demand, Hermès’ safe-haven status—driven by the investment value of its rare handbags—has kept it afloat. Yet, as the house transitions, one can’t help but wonder: Can Hermès maintain its dominance without Nichanian’s steady hand?
Her spring 2026 collection, a testament to her signature style, showcased sensual textures and a breezy sense of luxury. Think leather openwork weaves on shirts and trousers, rough-edged silk twill bandanas, and ribbed knits that felt both timeless and modern. It’s this blend of innovation and tradition that has defined her career.
Nichanian’s exit is the latest in a series of high-profile changes at major European luxury houses, including Chanel, Dior, and Balenciaga. Yet, Hermès has long been a beacon of stability, with Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, its women’s ready-to-wear artistic director, in her role since 2014. This upheaval raises questions about the industry’s future as it navigates shifting consumer priorities and economic uncertainties.
And this is the part most people miss: While Hermès’ handbags are often in the spotlight, its ready-to-wear and accessories division has quietly become a cornerstone of its success, accounting for 28% of sales and growing 6% in the first half of the year. Nichanian’s influence extends far beyond menswear—she’s helped shape the very identity of the brand.
As we bid adieu to this fashion icon, the question remains: Who will rise to the challenge of upholding her legacy? And will Hermès continue to thrive in an ever-changing luxury landscape? Let us know your thoughts in the comments—do you think an internal successor is the right choice, or should Hermès look outside for fresh perspective? The discussion is just beginning.
